December 03, 2004

Mt Nemrut in Winter - Tips for Travellers

Mt Nemrut, Turkey

If you listen to people in Istanbul or read the guidebooks you'd think that the entire east of Turkey is impassable in winter. Well, not only can you travel around you can even climb Mt Nemrut (the one with the heads) if you like. Here's how...

I was there just after a week of solid snow so the conditions will probably be similar right through winter. No promises though.

Dolmuses run as far as Karadut (3M TL). Although I think the last one leaves Kahta at about 3pm or 3:30pm. In Karadut you can stay at the Karadut Pension (35M TL for two nights half board) which should stay open all winter. A couple of local schoolteachers are staying there. They have a heater they can put in your room but it's still pretty cold. They also make meals but forget about a hot shower. All the places further up the mountain are closed.

From Karadut it's 12km to the summit so try to get going early. You won't get breakfast before 7:30am though. The first 6km are pretty easy (or were when I did it) since some large tracked vehicle had been up to there and packed the snow. Don't be put off by locals claiming ever higher levels of snow (up to your chest said one).

The second 6km's are a bit harder since it's just virgin snow. I found I could mostly walk on top by carefully plotting my course. Only occassionally falling through. The last km or so was very easy when I did it as the snow doesn't settle on that part of the road for some reason. Blown off presumably. Overall it took me four hours to cover the 12km's.

Once you reach the top head up to the little visitors centre then go behind it and up the hill, veering slightly to the left. This will bring you to the western terrace. It's about 200m.

Enjoy the splendour and the isolation.

From there do not go back to the right to reach the eastern terrace. That's where the path is in summer and there are some signs but in winter it's a treacherous route. You end up on a very steep section covered in snow with about a 200ft drop below. Big mistake.

Instead, walk past the heads on the western terrace and you'll very quickly see a shed at the same level. Walk behind the shed and continue around and you'll have an easy access to the eastern terrace. (I discovered this only after going the other way).

I stayed on top for about two hours but I take a lot of photos. You don't really need that long. Coming back down took a bit less that three hours, arriving back at the pension after dark.

Good luck if you try this! It's totally worth it. The views are great and the isolation on the summit is really special.

Posted by David at December 3, 2004 09:53 PM