August 18, 2004

I've been to Moynaq

Moynaq, Uzbekistan

Moynaq is the end of the earth. Once a thriving fishing port on the shoreline of the Aral Sea it now lies in the midst of desert, four hours from anywhere, the sea having all but disappeared due to Soviet mismanagement.

The idea was to outdo the US on cotton production. With the acquisition of the Central Asian states and all that empty land the opportunity seemed ripe. All that was needed was water to feed the thirsty crops. Much of that water ultimately came from the rivers that fed the Aral Sea, and so the sea began to dry up.

Some poignant attempts to stem the tide of change were made by the residents of Moynaq. Canals were dug from the town to the ever receding shoreline. It was a hopeless task. The canals now lie bone dry, the rusting hulks of fishing ships resting in the sands. The shoreline has now disappeared completely from sight, yet the town remains.

The town of Moynaq stretches over five or six kilometres. One main street and a couple of side streets. Equal parts occupied buildings, abandoned buildings, and empty lots. The remaining two thousand residents have not consolidated in one part of town but live scattered throughout the former city. There is no agriculture, no industry, and seemingly no reason to be here. As you walk the vacant streets and the dust blows it feels positively post-apocalyptic.

Yet those that remain seem happy enough. I'm the only guest at the crumbling two story Hotel Oybek, the only lodging in town, but the three or four guys hanging around cheerfully make me meals, show me the outdoor cold-water shower, and invite me to watch TV. The lady down the road will open her small shop if someone happens to want to buy some dry biscuits or a soft drink. The children are all friendly as they play in the dusty streets.

As I take the long bus journey back towards the rest of the world I know that most of the residents of Moynaq will not follow me on this journey. There's no reason to stay but if they left, where would they go?

Posted by David at August 18, 2004 12:59 AM