June 22, 2004

Overnighting on the Silk Road

Tash Rabat, Kyrgyzstan

My travelling companions over the Torugart Pass, Paul and Jo, today head on for Bishkek then their current home in Tashkent. I, however, am heading back down the Torugart road to see the 15th century caravanserai of Tash Rabat. A sort of Middle-Ages hostel for traders.

Despite protestations from various taxi drivers I managed to catch the local bus for At-Bashy. Along the way I was befriended by a couple of girls who spoke very little English. Despite my Kyrgyz being limited to "salam" and "rakhmat" they managed to offer me a small sweet from a packet they were happily devouring. I popped the creamy ball into my mouth and immediately my eyes started watering as the sour taste hit. How is it? they asked. I gave what I thought was a smile as I choked it down, it may have been a grimace.

I arrived at At-Bashy with an address but no idea how to get there. A couple of vague directions later and I head off down a dirt road. A car rolls by with a few people in it and offers a lift. I shrug it off in my travel-hardened fashion. Eventually I find the house I'm looking for, with the same car in the driveway and the driver standing at the door ready to greet me. Why didn't you come with us, he asks. I have no answer I can give with my above-mentioned command of Kyrgyz.

It's now late in the day but we decide to head straight for Tash Rabat, about a further one-and-a-half hours drive. The guy's teenage son and daughter come along for the ride. Of course I'd already been along the road to the Torugart Pass but I wasn't prepared for the gorgeous valley that we turned down to reach the caravanserai. Incredibly lush pastures, green hills, swift streams, and nomad's yurts combined to make a delightful picture.

After 15km we reached the caravanserai. A lonely stone building standing in the valley. The local caretaker came across to unlock the door and I headed in to explore. Built like a small castle, with thick stone walls, it must have been a chill place to stay when the weather turned cold. Apparently the only example in Central Asia, and maybe even outside of the Middle-East, I didn't see any in China, Tash Rabat is wonderfully evocative of the Silk Road life.

Posted by David at June 22, 2004 10:21 PM