January 24, 2004

Better than Monopoly

Luang Prabang, Laos

I changed some money into the local currency today. 4000 Thai baht (about US$100) got me a little over one million kip. Unfortunately the largest note in common circulation is 5000 kip so I ended up with a pile of money over an inch high. The money situation is so fluid you can pay for anything with kip, baht or dollars. Or often a combination.

It all came back to a local perspective when I chartered a minibus out to some local waterfalls at a price of 90000 kip, about US$9. The driver explained that he used to be a teacher but was paid only 180000 kip / month. Only just enough to feed his family. "When they pay 300000 a month I go back", he said.

On the way back from the falls we stopped in at a small village. They don't sell anything so they don't usually get visitors. I was a bit of a novelty. I strolled through the bamboo and thatch huts with my driver and soon was trailing an entourage of about thirty children. I stopped for a bit and then pulled out my camera. Half immediately starting posing and half ran screaming.

Having not much else to offer I thought I'd make a donation to the school, as suggested by all polically correct guidebooks. "Do they have a school?", I asked and was duly shown a small concrete block building on the edge of the village, with one room, about six small tables and chairs, and a blackboard. I offered to make a small donation and was ushered back to the centre of the village to meet the elders, huddled around a fire in the fading light.

Once my request was explained a great hubbub ensued. It seemed that "The Book" was required to record this illustrious transaction (and make sure it really goes to the school). Someone was dispatched and the book was duly brought forth. The gentleman who seemed to be in charge then started writing in the book. And writing, and writing. As he filled a page with I don't know what my guide drew my attention to an elderly lady heading towards her hut with some barbecued meat on a couple of sticks. "Rats", he said, and I could still see their tails.

The entry in the book was complete but it was not yet official. "The Stamp" was required. Someone else shot off into the dark to find it. Half-an-hour or more had now passed and I was only planning on giving a few dollars. After all, it was just one photo and a short stroll. Nevertheless, The Stamp was produced and with much ceremony the entry was officiated. It just remained for me to scribble in the small space left in the margin the actual amount of the donation. 50000 kip I put in and handed it with two hands to the elder. I left not knowing if they thought that was wonderful or hardly worth the effort of getting the book.

Posted by David at January 24, 2004 02:27 AM