December 12, 2003

Mini-bus to the clouds

Cemoro Lawang, Java, Indonesia.

My destination today is the active volcano of Gunung Bromo on the eastern end of Java. I started early from the small town of Negara in Bali and headed towards the port at Gilimanuk. The local bus stops a couple of kilometres short of the ferry terminal so the last stretch was on the back of a Vespa-style motorbike (ojek in local parlance), full backpack and all.

The ferry trip was pretty short. The only trouble was trying to convince the shoeshine boy that black polish was not the best choice for my hiking boots. Then there was a four hour bus trip to Probolinggo. Being a large and somewhat official looking bus, with receipts and everything, I somewhat foolishly figured that they'd quote proper prices. After forking over my 75000Rp (about $12) I was told by a fellow passenger that I was charged about double. As it was I didn't mind too much since my backpack was taking up one seat.

At the bus terminal in Probolinggo I was immediately pounced on by a ticket agent offering a mini-bus to Cemoro Lawang for 7500Rp. I tell him that I'll just get some food and come back and as there is no protest from him (the usual "you buy now!") I figure it much be the right price. He is also offering buses to Solo, my next destination much further away, for 85000Rp. I tell him I'll think about that one.

Well, it was a scam of sorts as it turns out. The time comes and goes for the bus to Cemoro Lawang and no sign of activity from my friend. Eventually he motions for me to follow and we come to another man who explains "charter", meaning a chartered car. "Where is the bus?", I ask. "No bus", he replies. "How much for this?". "20000Rp". "I don't think so". I leave and head to the array of Colts, small Mitsubushi Colt vans converted to mini-buses. I immediately hear "Bromo?". "How much?", I ask. "10000Rp". I try for 7500Rp but no luck. Given the size of the backpack I don't mind.

The backpack goes up top, I squeeze inside, and we're off. A quick count reveals 25 people in a van who's real capacity is maybe twelve, at a squeeze. We go hurtling down the street at some unknown speed, the speedo is broken and has a huge sticker over it in any case. In fact, all the instruments appear to be broken. At least the horn works. Often.

A few kilometres down the road we amazingly pick up another passenger. The driver's assistant gives up his position hanging out the open side door and holds on even further out.

We climb higher and higher, heading up into a thick mist. Passengers get on and off at the myriad of small villages dotting the hillside. A light rain starts to fall and the assistant jumps up on the roof to put a tarp over my pack whilst the driver continues to hurtle along the narrow road hugging the mountainside.

Two hours later we reach the summit, the village of Cemoro Lawang perched on the very edge of the volcano. I decide to first check out the Lava View Lodge. Sounds promising. Unfortunately they chose to put the car park at the viewpoint, and the rooms slightly back down the hill. I decide instead to go to the much cheaper Cafe Lava, also with no view. I choose a simple room, which feels like a monk's cell but costs only 25000Rp, about $4. I won't be there long, tomorrow morning I have to be up at 3am to get to the lookout for sunrise. Aye Carumba!

Posted by David at December 12, 2003 06:19 PM