Geiranger - Briksdalbreen, Norway

Wednesday 8th September 1999

We awoke this morning to grey skies but no rain. It seems that in no other country is the weather more important or more variable. We had breakfast and said goodbye to our spot at the end of the Geiranger fjord, heading up the steep mountain to Dalsnibba. The road twisted and snaked its way up, cutting through the lush green pastures and passing numerous waterfalls. The fjord and village were always in view below us, completing the scene.

We eventually reached the top of the climb and headed back across the mountain a short way until we came to a gravel toll road that would take us to the very top. It seemed worth the 45kr to travel the last 5km so up we went. The view from the top was sensational, with the clouds coming and going but completely clearing for a while giving us a dizzying view all the way down to the fjord. We moved the van right next to the wall and settled in for a cup of tea with a magnificent outlook.

We were now high enough to have snow so Anita and I ran off towards a large patch that we'd spotted. After a bit of mucking around there and admiring a small lake with a huge blue ice block we headed back to the van and back down the hill.

We continued on our way, choosing the slow scenic road rather than the main road which cut straight through the mountain in two long tunnels. Our route took us across a high pass, with numerous glaciers reaching down from above. After some time we returned to the main road and headed on for our main destination, Briksdalbreen, a large glacier not far away.

The road skirted several lakes and along another fjord until we rounded a corner and saw the glacier towering in front of us. It was getting late, after five, but we were inspired to reach our goal. We finally came to the parking place near the glacier and started on the steep, 45 minute climb to the face. It was worth every minute. Up close it was quite incredible, a maze of crevices and overhangs in shades ranging from pure white to a sensational deep blue. We spent some time walking around and admiring the angles, as well as the scene back down the valley, with more waterfalls and glaciers.

We eventually left as the light was beginning to fade, it seems the summer is well and truly over. We walked back to the car alongside the churning river issuing from the melting glacier. We then headed back a little way along the valley to a camping spot we'd spied earlier. We settled in with the fading light still just illuminating the glacier. Magnificent.